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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. However, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest place securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.